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My Wife's Favorites

My wife, Carla, loves Paris. Here are some recommendations she wrote.

NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANTS

Clown Bar – at Cirque d’Hiver and rue Amelot – next to the winter circus, clowns used to dine there between shows. Wonderful tiled circus murals.  Good bistrot food

Chez Omar – on rue de Bretagne. Great couscous and steak, very “branché” (very hip)

Le Marché – Place du Marché Sainte Catherine, inexpensive outdoor eating, bistrot-style

Chez Jannot – rue des Tournelles, Provençal cuisine , charming outdoor eating if – if you can get a table

Place de la République – all night brasseries for jet laggers up at all hours of the night. Many offer good mussels.

Best Neighborhood Pastries – on rue de Bretagne, same side of street as apartment. Also has entrees. There are 2 others of rue de Bretagne. Or, walk through the park nearly to Republique to “Brocco”

Best Cheese Store – on rue de Bretagne, market street entrance marked by Marche des Enfants Rouges. Cheese store is just past entrance to market.  They’ll package it for exporting, too

Best wine store – in same market as above

Best Bread Bakery – rue Saintonge

ACTIVITIES

Bateaubus – boat along Seine makes many stops like a bus would. Get off as long as you like, get back on and continue up and down Seine.

Musee Marmottan – Small Impressionist museum in very old mansion. Next to nice park.

Bateaumouche – Seine boat tour 

La Villette – hands-on science museum like Exploratorium but more up-to-date with Imax, submarine, playground, and park. Take bus 75 from the Mairie just across from the apartment. 20 minute ride.  Museum is last stop.  One of my daughter Sonya’s favorites.

Musee des Arts & Metiers – history of science. Great exhibits of development of science and industry.

Bike Riding or Roller-blading along the Seine & Canal – road closed for cyclists on Sundays. Big scene – street performers, good for people watching.   Rent bikes between Chatelet and Hotel de Ville or just beyond Bastille on the Boulevard

Scenic Walk/Mosque – from apartment go along the left bank of the Seine , outdoor sculpture garden, to Botanic Garden, to Mosque. Have pastries and mint tea at café of mosque. Go to inside or interior courtyard seating. Steam baths, alternating men’s days and women’s days.

Climb Notre Dame Tower – watch skateboarders on Pont Double, south side of cathedral

Pompidou – MOMA plaza with fountains good for people watching, street performers. Walk to Les Halles. Kids parks by St. Eustache.

Blvd. De la Bastille – Green area down along Seine. Free concerts, parks, cafes, harbour similar to Sausalito.

La Coulée Verte /Viaduc des Arts – Walk along the viaduct- above it from Bastille west , lovely gardens.  Walk down below for a block or 2 closer to the Bastille on your walk back  (or upon setting out) for some amazing design shops in the viaduct

PARKS

Place des Vosges

Jardin du Palais Royal near Louvre

Jardin de Luxembourg

SHOPPING

Sonya’s Pick  – Rue des Francbourgeois. Many other great shops on this street; St. Croix la Bretonnerie; Bourg Tibourg; Rue de Moussy

Cheap shopping – rue de Rivoli

Best Flea Market – Puces de Vanves at porte de Vanves. South side of town. Take bus or metro. Only open in the morning.

“Paris pas Cher” – shopping guide book in apartment with Carla’s notations.

 

AIRPORT TRANSPORTATION

$40 – 50 for a cab. Rush hours can easily make the half-hour trip 2 hours

Paris Shuttle

Buses – 7 euros per person – kids pay full fare

RER –metro that serves suburbs- take it from the Gare du Nord or Chatelet des Arts